7/3 Day 122 Ripley Falls Trail to
Lakes of the Clouds Hut – 11.7 miles
Though it rained all night, our
campsite held firm. We packed up early since we were technically camped
illegally and were hiking by 0630. Right down the hill from our campsite we
spotted Shaprshin and Kestrel’s tent off to the right; they waved as we walked
by. Coming up behind us we noticed another couple who we kept running in to
since Chet’s place and yet never caught their names; sometimes we felt as if
they were trying to race us but I’m really not that competitive so it was just
humorous to me. After crossing the railroad tracks and road down below we
started climbing up 2000 ft in elevation to Webster Cliffs, where the rain
actually parted so we could relax and enjoy the views. From the cliffs, you
could see Ripley Falls down below, which again made us glad for our little
detour to the falls the night before. The hike from the cliffs transformed from
a steady upward hike to literal climbing up over open rock faces with views all
around. This trek continued up to Mount Webster and Mount Jackson until we
reached Mizpah Spring Hut for lunch. Since the sky was looking a little dark we
asked the hut worker if we could eat our lunch inside; he not only let us sit
inside but offered us a ton of leftovers for free. Today just became 10x
better. I’ve never seen lasagna so big/deep before. We didn’t care that
everything was cold; it was free food that wasn’t peanut butter on a tortilla. In
addition to the lasagna, we ate green beans, mashed potatoes, salad, and some
breakfast casserole thing with plenty to spare, which is strange for 8 hungry thru
hikers.
With bellies more than full, and
everyone belching lasagna the whole way up Mount Pierce, we feared the weather
might take a turn for the worse. The skies just kept getting darker and darker
but so far the rain/storm was holding off. The weather was actually kind of
nice walking through the start of the Presidential Range, taking our time and
taking in the views. The trail and its surroundings were absolutely beautiful.
I wish we could have lingered a little longer but thunder was heard in the
distance and our biggest fear above tree line as a hiker is lightning, so we
distanced ourselves from each other and picked up the pace a little while still
trying to comprehend all that was before us. In the distance we spotted shelter
up ahead, the Lakes of the Clouds Hut, which we were hopefully to call home for
the night. We were told that even if the work for stay (WFS) slots were full
that this particular hut would not turn a hiker away due to the risk for
dangerous weather conditions at this elevation. Since we had taken our good
ole’ time and knew of several other hikers ahead of us, we were hoping to at
least get to stay in “The Dungeon”—a bunkroom/emergency shelter for thru
hikers. Sadly, we were told that “The Dungeon” was covered in ice and therefore
uninhabitable at this time and that yes, all of the work for stays were already
taken. Sharpshin and Kestrel got 2 of them, which we were very happy about; the
rest of us were given the option of paying $20 to sleep on the floor of the
dining hall and eat all the leftovers, which we gladly accepted. I must say
though, the whole situation was kind of awkward. The hut staff, or Croo, were
all very nice. I don’t mind sleeping on the floor, though we did have to wait
until everyone else went to bed before we could claim our spots, which was a
tad past hiker midnight. The food was great, though it was torture to have to
sit and watch everyone else eat while you wait your turn, trying to stay out of
the way in the corner. The weird thing was the reaction or lack thereof from
all of the 80 actual guests staying at the hut. No one talked to us, no one.
Maybe they thought they weren’t allowed to talk to us or maybe they looked as
us like a stray dog waiting for their scraps to fall from the table, which we
kind of were, but it was just a little strange to me is all, very humbling.
Otherwise, we got to eat a lot of really good food and then Moose and I picked
out a table to go sleep under while the guests played card games during “quiet
time” by headlamps. All in all, today was another great day on the trail.
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| the dungeon |
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| Sharpshin and Kestrel |
7/4 Day 123 Lakes of the Clouds Hut to Osgood Tent Site - 10.1 miles
Not our best sleep, but we were excited to finally summit the infamous Mount Washington, the 2nd highest peak on the AT at 6,288 feet. We had to rise early and get packed so the Croo could prepare for breakfast. We waited to leave until 0700 for the weather report to be radioed in to the hut then set out. Right now it looked like we were socked in; it was a cloudy, misty, windy morning but we were hopeful for a few glimpses of sunshine. Before we started up the mountain, we saw the sign warning us to turn back if bad weather. Though we couldn't see but 5 feet in front of us, we followed the cairns and continued our hike.
Once we reached the summit, it was group picture time. We were all smiles as we hung out at the Summit House, checking out the gift shop, eating snacks, and mailing post cards. Though we had to trek up the entirety of the mountain, there is the option of driving a car or riding the Cog Train up to the top; I personally think that's cheating, but the option does exist :-). After we hung around for about an hour, hour and a half, it was time to keep moving. On our way down the mountain, we did stop to take pictures of the Cog Train. I'm told that it's tradition for thru hikers to moon the train as it passes but law enforcement has been trying to terminate this tradition over the past few years; we simply waved at the passengers. The more we hiked the more the fog cleared and the views were absolutely amazing. The Presidential Range was definitely beautiful as we climbed Mount Clay and Mount Jefferson, and their trails were crawling with tourists to celebrate Independence Day above tree line. For lunch, we decided to stop at Madison Spring Hut to discuss mileage for the day. It was hot, we were tired, and from the hut we had a very large, steep climb waiting for us. Our original goal was to make it into Gorham for the night to catch some fireworks and partake in the holiday festivities; however, the trail did not make this goal particularly easy. It was slow moving as we made our way over Mount Madison. The hike was beautiful but tedious; the trail consisted of rocks and more rocks. From the ridge, you could look back at the Presidentials and to see and to know that we actually walked over all of those mountains was an unbelievable feeling. The view was breath taking; we were truly humbled by God's beauty and so very blessed to be a part of it.
Unfortunately, God's creation, though beautiful, did not get any easier and we were beat. We thought the trail would ease up once we got below tree line but it didn't. We were lucky to have gotten off the ridge before the rain started but resigned to not make it into town for fireworks. We stopped at a tent site with platforms and spent our night trying to dry off from the down pour that drenched us before tents were able to be raised.
Love and prayers always,
Wide Load
"Sometimes there just aren't enough rocks..." Forrest Gump
Love reading your hike reports! We just hiked Mt. Washington a few weeks ago. So beautiful! I bet people didn't talk to you at the Lakes of the Clouds Hut because they were intimidated! Whenever I come across thru hikers I always feel star struck. Can't wait to read more!
ReplyDeleteTricia @ roadtriptheworld
Love the rock placements. Those look just like offerings to the "Pacha Mama" (Mother Earth) in Peru.
ReplyDelete